The New Book of Middle Eastern Food

Claudia Roden’s masterwork is far more than a compilation of recipes; it is a seminal work of culinary anthropology that maps the diverse and interconnected foodways of the Middle East and North Africa. First published in 1972 as a landmark introduction to a then largely unfamiliar cuisine, this expanded edition represents three decades of the author’s relentless travel, research, and refinement. Roden approaches the region’s cooking not as a static tradition but as a living, evolving expression of history, geography, and daily life, weaving personal narrative, folk tales, and social observation into a rich tapestry that contextualizes every dish.

The book’s intellectual architecture is built upon the four major culinary traditions of the region: the exquisite, rice-centric haute cuisine of Persia, where grains are adorned with meats, fruits, and nuts; the vibrant, vegetable-forward cooking of the Arab Levant (Syria, Lebanon, Jordan), celebrated for its salads and bulgur wheat preparations; the legendary complexity of Turkish cuisine, with its kebabs, savory pies, yogurt salads, and syrup-drenched pastries; and the sensually orchestrated flavors of North Africa, particularly Morocco, where sweet and hot are balanced in iconic tagines and couscous. Roden meticulously details the aromatic signatures—the fried garlic and coriander of Egypt, the sumac of Syria, the preserved lemon of Morocco—that distinguish each country’s palate.

With over 800 recipes, the volume moves systematically from the foundational mezze—a philosophy of eating embodied in small, shared plates—through robust skewered meats, savory stews, pilafs, and vegetable dishes, to conclude with syrup-soaked pastries and nut-based confections. Roden has thoughtfully updated techniques for contemporary kitchens, advocating for healthier ingredients and efficient methods without compromising the essential textures and layered flavors that define authenticity. The prose is both authoritative and evocative, treating each recipe as a story waiting to be completed in the reader’s kitchen.

The book’s enduring significance lies in its dual role as an indispensable practical guide and a profound cultural document. It demystifies a vast culinary landscape for the home cook, proving that its core ingredients are now accessible and its techniques achievable, while simultaneously arguing for the deep interconnectedness of food, memory, and identity. It is essential reading for anyone seeking to understand not just how to prepare a dish, but why it matters.

The consensus venerates this work as the definitive, encyclopedic authority on Middle Eastern cuisine, a foundational text for serious cooks and culinary scholars. Readers praise its profound cultural depth, treating recipes as historical narratives. However, a significant critique targets the book’s density and occasional lack of practical guidance; some find it better for reading than for weeknight cooking, wishing for more visual aids and streamlined instructions amidst its wealth of anthropological detail.